Dust swirls around moccasin-clad feet as Taos Pueblo dancers move to the steady beat of drums. Throughout the year, tribal members honor their cultural heritage through dances, festivals and sacred ceremonies. Most are open to the public.

On popular San Geronimo Day, a crafts fair, games and mischief by the koshares (clowns) precede the ceremony. On Christmas Day, dancers wearing animal hides grab the audience’s attention. In contrast, the Santiago Corn Dance appeals with its solemnity and quiet beauty.

Each ceremony is wrapped in mystery. If asked the significance of a costume or dance step or chant, a tribal member may respond but without answering the question. In addition, photography, recording and sketching are not permitted. Perhaps this secrecy has been the key to the survival of their rituals and traditions.

At a Santiago Corn Dance one July afternoon, the dancers assembled on the Taos Pueblo plaza in front of the church. Two rows formed and faced each other. Possibly they represented the ancient pueblo’s two sections, the North House and the South House. While a group of older men played drums and chanted, the dancers hopped in place, then slowly circled around and back into place.

The three dozen women wore dresses bright in color: turquoise, red, blue. No two were alike. Colorful wide ribbons hung down their backs, woven sashes accented their waists, and coral or turquoise jewelry adorned their necks. All wore white knee-high moccasins.

The four male dancers were bare-chested. Scarves and fox skins hung from their waists. Each wore a single eagle feather in his long hair.

It’s said that everything at these events has significance. That day a person wearing bright red stockings, a simple dress and a shawl that hid her face stood among the audience. Simply an onlooker?

The ceremony moved from one section of the pueblo to another, including areas usually closed to the public. The audience quietly followed. At the end of each set, an elder spoke a few words in their language, Tiwa. Sometimes the talks sounded deeply reverent. Other times they made the dancers laugh.

The dancing continued non-stop for more than two hours. Soft, steady and hypnotic, it deepened the mystery.

Bright blue doors accent the brown adobe, multi-story buildings of Taos Pueblo. The Taos Indians have practiced their cultural traditions here for nearly a millennium.

Hlauuma (North House) and Hlaukwima (South House), which form the two sides of the pueblo, are said to be the oldest continuously inhabited communities in the United States. In 1992, Taos Pueblo was designated a World Heritage Site.

Most of the pueblo's buildings were built between A.D. 1000 and 1450. Those on the north side range from one to five stories high, while those on the south side are three to four stories high. Residents access the upper stories by means of exterior ladders. Adobe ovens for baking bread, called hornos stand outside many of the homes.

Red Willow Creek flows through the center of the village and provides its primary source of water. Taos Pueblo has no conveniences, but the 30 people who dwell inside its walls are permitted to use propane for cooking, heating and refrigeration. About 1,900 Taos Indians live on the pueblo's 99,000 acres of land, including 48,000 acres returned by the U.S. government in 1970. The pueblo's sacred Blue Lake and lands are off-limits to all but the members of Taos Pueblo.

Visitors are welcome to tour the main area of Taos Pueblo. The plaza, which holds drying racks for corn, meat and berries, is the focal point for community activities. The Hlauuma side features St. Jerome Chapel, a Catholic mission church, the cemetery and ruins of St. Jerome Chapel, destroyed in 1847 during the Mexican War.

Many of the Taos Indians maintain shops in the pueblo where visitors can purchase fine, hand-crafted wares such as silver and turquoise jewelry, tanned buckskin drums and mica-flecked pottery.

Taos Pueblo has several religious ceremonies throughout the year that visitors may attend. No photography is permitted.

• Jan. 1, Turtle Dance
• Jan. 6, Deer or Buffalo Dance
• May 3, Santa Cruz Dance
• June 13, San Antonio Feast Corn Dance
• June 24, San Juan Day Corn Dance
• July 7, 8, 9 2006 21st Annual Taos Pueblo Pow-Wow
• July 25, Santiago Day Corn Dance
• July 26, Santa Ana Day Corn Dance
• Sept. 29, San Geronimo Eve Vespers
• Sept. 30, San Geronimo Day, Traditional Pole Climbing
• Dec. 24, Procession of the Virgin
• Dec. 25, Deer or Matachines Dance

IF YOU GO TO TAOS PUEBLO
Edited by Jenny Lucas

Location: Seventy-two miles north of Santa Fe, New Mexico, United States. The pueblo is located two miles outside the town of Taos.

Maps:

• Taos Pueblo
• New Mexico
• United States of America

When to Go: Taos Pueblo is usually open from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on Sunday. Exceptions are when tribal rituals are being performed. Taos Pueblo closes for about 10 weeks in late winter through early spring, so it is advised to call ahead.

Tours: Guided tours are available daily.

Attractions:

• St. Jerome Chapel: Jerome is the patron saint of the Pueblo. The chapel, a Catholic mission church, has been rebuilt twice, the last time in 1850.
• The Ruins of St. Jerome Chapel: The ruins are located in the cemetery. The chapel was originally built in 1619, destroyed in 1680, built again in 1706 and bombarded in 1847 during the Mexican War.
• Red Willow Creek: The creek is the major source of water for residents of the Pueblo. It has a footbridge that connects the two sides of the Pueblo - North House and South House.
• Pueblo Plaza: An area once used to hold the drying racks for corn, meat and berries, the Plaza is now used for shade and parking.
• Many individually owned shops that sell native arts and crafts.

Modern Conveniences: Pueblo traditions prohibit the use of electricity or running water inside the walls of the pueblo. Many pueblo houses are used for ceremonies, not living.

Language: The native language in Taos Pueblo is Tiwa, but English and Spanish are also spoken.

Religion: Two religions are practiced in Taos. Ninety percent of people are Catholic. The other religion is a native religion, over 1,000 years old, and based on aspects of nature.

Nearby lodging: The town of Taos offers a wide variety of lodging, from B&Bs such as Casa Europa, (888)758-9798, to luxury hotels such as Fechin Inn, (505) 751-1000 or (888) 751-1007.

Entrance Fees:
Tourist Fees:

• Adult admission: $10 per person
• Students (13 and older, includes college with ID) $5 per person
• Group Rates (3 or more Adults): $8 per person
• Children under 13: Free

• Still camera fee: $5
• Movie or video camera fee: $5
• All professional and commercial photographers as well as artists interested in sketching or painting must apply for pre-approval; fees vary.